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Bellagio – Touring the towns of Lake Como

Bellagio
Bellagio

Bellagio is often referred to as the pearl of Lake Como.  It could be to do with the fact that it is situated in the cup of the upside down “y” of Como’s shape, Or it could be that it’s an absolute treasure; it is one of the prettiest towns on the shores of Lake Como.

I’ve written about Belaggio before, but I feel it needs further exploration and deserves much more real estate than it has had so far.

Bellagio narrow street outdoor dining
Piazza in Bellagio
Bellagio view from ferry

Bellagio by boat - how else?

It starts with a boat ride.  Any town that starts with a water arrival is in my book a winner already (I may have waxed lyrical about the ferry in Dartmouth).  The ferry we take is from Cadenabbia (also possible from Menaggio or Varenna).  Bellagio is visible from the start as a small line of buildings.  As the ferry comes closer the buildings grow in size, in character and in quantity until, a mere 10 minutes later, said buildings are actually 4 or 5 stories high.  The single line that appeared from the other side of the lake is actually back to back historic buildings climbing elegantly up the steep cobbled roads that emanate from the shore.

What to do in Bellagio

Cobbled streets and shopping heaven

Pierangelo Masciadri shop Bellagio

There’s a labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets housing unique stores and a myriad of independent restaurants, which provides hours of wandering (purse in hand, there are too many tempting things).  There are so many different shops which are all a delight to browse in.  But I do keep going back to a few favourites:

  • Pierangelo Masciadri – for the most beautiful and unique silk, handbags, sunglasses.  I couldn’t resist a silk poncho, I was told Goldie Hawn has one and was shown the photos of her in the shop with hubby).
  • Missoni – randomly, there is a Missoni shop in Bellagio.  Designer heaven and always with a great selection of scarves and hats that I simply love.
  • Leather shops.  Italy is known for its leather and there are plenty of choices to find bags, gloves, belts…anything leather.
  • La Bottega del Legno di Mario Tacchi – Hand carved wooden bowls, boards, statues, vases.  The workshop is in the shop, so you can see the master at work.  Wood that you can see actually came from a tree.

Bellagio arcade
Lakeside promenade Bellagio

Most of the villas on Lake Como are privately owned, so when there is an opportunity to visit one we never hesitate.   Villa Melzi, although also privately owned, opens its grounds to the public.  The walk to the villa is along a stunning flower-lined lakeside promenade which should be experienced whether going to the villa or not.  The villa itself is small, simple and elegant, but the main reason to pay 8 euros is for the garden.  Perfectly manicured with amazing old trees, a tree lined lake-side walkway, statues, pergolas, ponds and even a Japanese garden.  I will have to let a gallery of photos show the true beauty of the grounds:

Loppia

At the other end of Villa Melzi, we found ourselves in the small hamlet of Loppia.  Right on the waters edge with a small harbour and beach with views of another grand villa.  The reason we ventured here though, was for the restaurant Darsene di Loppia on the harbour (see the dining section below).  A detour worth taking.

Punta Spartivento and the harbour

A short walk away from the hubbub of the shops and narrow streets there is a quiet place to enjoy some reflection, Punta Spartivento.  A harbour on the waters edge with the prettiest outlook, a small green with benches overlooking the lake and trees perfectly placed for some dappled shade.  Added bonus if sustenance is required, the restaurant La Punta has a terrace overlooking all the splendour and is one of our favourite places to lunch.

Pescallo – the other side of Bellagio

For the first time we ventured to the top of the town and over to the other side of the hill, to the small hamlet of Pescallo.  Once again away from the busier shopping streets in Belaggio, this is a place of peace, with a small area by the water for sitting and admiring the view and a lovely restaurant, La Pergola, with a terrace right over the water.  See below.

Pescallo

Dining in Bellagio

We are honestly spoilt for choice when it comes to eating establishments in Belaggio.  From, IMHO, the best Carbonara we’ve had in Ristorante Terrazza Barchetta, to lake-side terraces, to small wine and apperitivo places down some of the small cobbled alleys.  I’ve talked about some of our favourites in our Lake Como West post, but I have to mention a few we discovered while wandering outside of the main town:

With a vine-covered terrace right next to the harbour in Loppia, this is a stunning and quiet spot away from the main town.  The service is really attentive and the  food is a great mix of seafood, lake fish and meat.  We couldn’t resist the fish side of the menu, with swordfish carpaccio and roasted octopus to start, followed by home-made salt cod ravioli with fresh tomato and homemade cavatelli pasta (looks like little shells) in a shellfish broth….yum.

We stumbled upon this fantastic restaurant when we were exploring the small hamlet of Pescallo.  Their terrace right over the lake is in a quiet, non-touristy area with absolutely stunning views.  Their menu has a lot of fish and seafood, so of course we had to start with the selection of local lake fish and the octopus , done rather unusually wrapped in bread and fried.  I think it was Clark’s favourite octopus dish of the trip.  Followed by home-made ravioli “del plin”, which is a Piemonte dish meaning pinched.  Two pieces of pasta are joined together by pinching them.  Stuffed with lake perch on smoked aubergine puree, again…yum.

The only problem now, if you can call it a problem, is that we have too many “favourite” restaurants in Bellagio….which one to pick, hmm.

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