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Ayutthaya – One night and a lot of temples.

Ayutthaya - Wat Chawathanaram

We had a 226km, 3-and-a-half-hour drive to get to Ayutthaya on this leg of our Thailand road-trip.  This meant we had the afternoon to start exploring the many temples of Ayutthaya.  But with only a one night stay in Ayutthaya, can we possibly see it all?  The short answer is no, not absolutely everything.  There is almost too much, but we did see an epic amount in one afternoon and one morning.

What is Ayutthaya?

  • It is the former capital of the Kingdom of Siam founded in 1350 and in use until 1767.It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
  • The main temples of Ayutthaya were built within what looks like an island.  A piece of land enclosed by 3 rivers, The Chao Phraya, Lopburi and Pa Sak, with only 4 bridges allowing access to the World Heritage Site of Ayutthaya. 
  • There are almost 100 historical sites.  OMG!, where to start

    The host at our accommodation for the night gave us a map and recommended a route to see the main temples, finishing at Wat Chawathanaram, which he recommended visiting at sunset.  Phew, a man with a plan.  Thank goodness.

Ayutthaya - afternoon day one

In just one afternoon, can you believe we went to 5 different temples!  Some we paid for, some were free (it’s possible to buy a multi ticket to see several temples for a cheaper price….they won’t offer, you need to ask).

Onto the first temple…

Wat Mahuthat

This temple is famous for the Buddha head in a tree.  It used to be a whole Buddha statue, but in 1767 the temple was destroyed by the Burmese army and the head fell to the ground and was left where it landed.  Over the years the roots of the Banyan tree nearby have grown around the head.  I wonder if eventually the tree will have completely consumed the head.  Ooh, scary movie vibes.

Wat Ratchaburana

There’s something magical and truly ancient about all of these sites.  The ruins are exactly that, ruins.  Each one in disrepair, most are on the lean and crumbling.  The white colour they once would have been has mostly crumbled off, showing the red and orange hues of the brick underneath.  However, there’s an air of mystery and wonder….I’m getting Lara Croft adventure and “The King and I” vibes (although to be fair that was set much later than these temples). 

Wat Ratchaburana was a great example of the two main temple shapes.  What do we have then?

A Pran temple in Ayutthaya
The ones that look like Angkor Wat in Cambodia (kind of shaped like a corn-cob) are called Prang.
A chedi in Ayutthaya

The Bell shaped structures with a point at the top are called Chedi (or Stupa).  Both types of structure are built to house relics of Buddhas, his disciples or other worthy saints, monks or Kings.  Basically graves.  Another question to ask oneself though; “How many buddhas are there?  Buddha means “enlightened one”, so there are innumerable Buddhas.  Well ok then, no specific answer.

Wat Phra Si Samphet

This site is known for its three ancient Chedi, each housing the ashes of former Kings from the 15th and 16th centuries.  These chedis were probably the most complete and upright we saw in Ayutthaya, still having their white exterior.

Ayutthaya - Wat Phra Si Samphet
Wat Lokayasutharam

I’m not going to lie, this 42 meter reclining Buddha looks brand new.  It’s so clean.  However, although it’s the original design from the 14th century,  the reclining Buddha has been restored several times (and thoroughly cleaned I would imagine).  

What’s the significance of a Buddha in a reclining pose?  Apparently it represents Buddha in his final illness before his liberation where he is released from the cycle of rebirth.  This adds to the question of ‘how many Buddhas are there?’ as this sounds like there is only one..it seems quite complicated.  I need more enlightenment.  He is always lying on his right side representing a serene and peaceful transition.  Not a painful death….I wondered why he always seems to have a smile.  I like that.

Ayutthaya - Wat Lokayasutharam
Wat Chawathanaram
Our host was absolutely right to recommend this temple for a sunset visit.  The temple is constructed in orange brick and gets the full westerly setting sun.  The temples turn ever warmer hues of orange and yellow as the sun gets lower.
Ayutthaya - Wat Chawathanaram
Ayutthaya - Wat Chawathanaram

Phew.  That’s a lot of temples in an afternoon.  Despite the quantity though, the afternoon was very relaxed as we walked from temple to temple, enjoying the afternoon and evening sun.  The only thing to do after all the sightseeing?  Food and a cold beer.

Ayutthaya fresh river prawnI had read about the famous river prawns of Ayutthaya and anyone who knows me knows I love all seafood.  We’re only here for one night so…..river prawn me!  I had also heard from my brother that he had seen photos and they were rather large (I think the word enormous was used). I’ve had Tiger prawns and King prawns;  How big can they be?….Ok, enormous might be a good word.  Check out the photo!

They are one of the largest fresh-water prawns in the world.  The bright yellow bit at the head is “head-butter” – not just the brains (apparently very small), but the hepatopancreas (yes, I had to look that word up).  Basically internal organs full of fats and enzymes….yummy.  That part tasted kind of bisque-like, whereas the main body was very meaty and sweet.  A great experience (they are not cheap though, we shared one to go with other yummy Thai dishes).

Ayutthaya - Morning day two

I’m just showing what is possible in one night with two half days.  Believe me we didn’t see every single temple and historical site…over 100!  I would need at least 3 days.  We did however pick some really great ones.  Day two started with one of my favourites…

Wat Phukhao Thong
Ayutthaya - Wat Phukhao Thong

As I said this was one of our favourites.  It was fairly early so we were the only people there.  It’s a huge white, 4-sided pyramid shaped Prang (the same name as the corn-cob temple….completely different shapes though.  Go figure.).  We were able to walk around and to go up the very steep and many steps.  It was so peaceful and calm.

Wat Yai Chaimongkhon

This monastery was another favourite.  Although busier, it was a stunning site with a huge chedi in the middle and so many Buddha effigies…I lost count. Only photos will help to give the reader an idea of the sheer quantity…

So ended our mini-tour of Ayutthaya.  Our continuing road trip as we left Ayutthaya was only 102km which took less than two hours.  

We were worried that with just one night in Ayutthaya, we’d be running around trying to squeeze everything in (classic FOMO).  In fact this was not the case.  I would call it a relaxing walk with many amazing sites to see.  There was even time for coconut breaks and cold beers.

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