Varenna – Touring the towns of Lake Como
October 21, 2026
Varenna is like the baby sister of Bellagio, and along with Menaggio they are the three most visited towns on Lake Como. They all sit within a ferry ride of each-other; Bellagio in the middle (the crotch), Menaggio on the Como leg and Varenna sitting almost opposite it on the Lecco leg. They are each extremely charming and too much to see in one day. My recommendation as always is to take your time and have a good old explore.
We’ve been to Varenna on many occasions but have found in recent years that it is becoming increasingly difficult to park. With that in mind my advice is to take a ferry (from Menaggio, Argegno or Bellagio) , which is what we did this year with our friends Jo and Paul. Once again, we found new things to explore and new places to wine and dine.
What to do in Varenna
La Passaggiata Degli Innamorati
Varenna is one of the loveliest Lake Como towns to wander around. The slopes from the waters-edge rise quite steeply, making the cobbled streets narrow and extremely picturesque. Walking along the waterfront from the ferry terminal, the first item of note is “La Pasaggiata Degli Innamorati” (the lovers walk). A really pretty, flower-lined walkway hanging just above lake-level, which leads to the tiny port. Keep your eyes open, there’s an opportunity to pop yourself and your beloved other into a heart, for a photo with a lake view.
Varenna harbour and independent pokey shops
Once at the port, the path along the lake-front begins to bustle with small shops, gelaterias, café’s and restaurants in abundance. The shops are unique and delightful to wander around (ok, perhaps only for the girls. Boys….go find a wine bar).
Clark and Paul did just that and found “In Vinas Veritas wine shop & wine bar”, where they parked themselves to sample some local wines and bubbles. Their only gripe was that Jo and I returned too quickly (honestly, we could have carried on shopping). We found clothes, lovely leather handbags (yes, we may have purchased something), lots of jewellery, pottery and plenty of touristy souvenirs. Something for everyone (again….mostly the ladies).
Taking an alley up to the next parallel street, we found more restaurants, bars and occasional shops. There’s so much choice for eating it’s almost impossible to choose. A couple we have sampled are…
Osteria Quattro Pass – the restaurant is in an ancient vaulted room that used to be a warehouse. The coolness was very welcome on a hot day. The wine list is excellent and the food totally delicious; homemade pastas, local lake fish and seasonal specialties. I only have to show a few photos to elicit some rumbling stomachs. And how do they get pasta to look so elegant? When I serve pasta it’s just a pile of saucy pasta thrown in a bowl (albeit delicious)….I need to work on my presentation.
A small and intimate restaurant that we’ve been to several times. I love the simplicity of their home-made pastas. Their wine list is also very pleasing as they have a good selection of bottles you can try by the glass, with a good selection of locally sourced wines from Lake Como or the Valtellina Valley. On one occasion I particularly enjoyed a pasta with a red-wine sauce and asked how they made the sauce: “simple, it’s just olive oil, a little butter, pancetta, red wine, thyme and tagliolini”. Sounds easy enough and one to try at home…I hope I can make it half as well.
Villa Monastero
It’s named “Monastero” as it was built over a Cistercian monastery. Like many of the villas we’ve visited on Lake Como, the villa itself is not the only attraction; the gardens quite often being the star of the show.
We thoroughly enjoyed weaving around the cobbled paths, which were bordered on both sides by an abundance of flora, with Lake Como as a constant companion. The paths eventually arrive at the villa and on entering, we found rooms that were ornate and slightly over-the-top with painted ceilings, highly decorated walls and lavish furnishings (turquoise marble bathroom anyone?). Back in the garden we were not only surrounded by flowers and lush plants, we were also in competition for space with selfie-makers in any and every spot with a view or something quaint. Oh well, if you can’t beat them….join them.
Villa Cipressi Botanical Gardens
This was our new find on our visit this year. We knew about Villa Monastero’s botanical garden, but what we didn’t know is there are in fact two Botanical gardens in Varenna and the entrances are next door to each other. Time to check out the competition.
Villa Cipressi is now a hotel with a lovely restaurant. However, they do allow non-residents to pay an entrance fee to visit the Botanical gardens. The gardens are tropical green with beautiful ferns and palms interspersed with a plethora of flowers, of which I do not know the names (birds I’m good at, flowers….not so much. Flower). The calm feeling of the garden wasn’t lost on me though as I always appreciate nature in all its guises. It was enhanced even more by the camaraderie of our companions for the day…Selfie spot?
Actually, on that note we had to laugh when we found a small queue of people waiting to have their photo taken by a specific gate with a view.…there was also an employee ensuring fairness of turn and time taken was adhered to. The reality of a lot of Instagram posters. Come on guys, have some originality.
Castello di Vezio (Castle Vezio ) - Above Varenna
Castle Vezio is quite high above Varenna in the small town of the same name (Vezio). It takes about 20 minutes to walk from Varenna…up, but the effort to get there is definitely worth it. The castle has an old Roman tower at its centre which you can climb for the most amazing views. Around the tower are the old castle walls and terraces, all adorned with borders full of flowers and greenery, and the occasional sculpture of a ghostly figure…or is it a phantom? Random, but quite effective. Whilst wandering around it becomes apparent that the icing on the cake is the stunning panoramic views over Lake Como.
Where next?
As I write this I am looking out of my window at a very wet Lake District in the north of England. It’s good to remember the sunshine and warmth of the summer. in Italy.
I think I may continue with those memories, revisit the photos and take a trip to another Italian lakeside town.
If it can console you, today is a rainy day also on Lake Como! Miss you guys!! See you!!