Bourg Saint Maurice – an explore from the door
August 14, 2021
Bourg Saint Maurice
We’re staying in the centre of the small town, Bourg-Saint-Maurice. From our balcony we can see the ski area, Les Arcs in front of us and all around are the mountains of the French Alps. It’s August, so our motivation to come here is not the obvious skiing one. Instead we were tempted by the 3000km of walking trails in the very beautiful French Alps. The chance to sample some French food and local wine is an added bonus.
First stop, the Boulangerie opposite our apartment. I can’t say I’m a fan of bread, but French bread, wow. I don’t know how they do it; crunchy on the outside, super soft and light on the inside, totally moorish, no butter needed it’s so moist. This is going to be a daily ritual. Wake. Boulangerie. Breakfast.
Know before you go
- Parking in the town and ski resorts is free in the summer – excellent.
- To drive to the ski areas is between 25 and 35 minutes up (free parking).
- It’s possible to use the ski lifts and gondoliers in the summer. Altitude hiking and views without climbing from the bottom. Fab!
- When at altitude, the air is definitely thinner. Slower walking and less exertion is required (and unfortunately less chatting)
- All the walks in the area can be started from a maximum 30 minute drive (most are less).
- The diversity of walking is amazing. Glaciers, lakes, villages, mountains, waterfalls and a nature park.
- There is a great local market on Wednesday and Saturday.
There’s almost too much to explore. Of course some clear days are needed for the higher walks (at least we think so, all that effort and no view? Nah.)
Explore from the door - Hikes from Bourg Saint Maurice
Bourg Saint Maurice to La chapelle Saint-Michel
First stop, tourist information to buy walking maps of the area. Second stop, lunch (the Chalupot, excellent stop for local fare, especially the baked cheese!), third, a walk to the Chapelle Saint Michel…..easily seen from the town atop a precipice. This is a great walk to see the entire of Bourg Saint Maurice from above. Although only 4km from start to end, we climbed a decent 410 meters, so pretty steep, but a good “leg-warmer” to prepare us for our Alpine walking. The views were spectacular and we got a real sense of the layout of Bourg Saint Maurice. Being in the mountains, summer thunderstorms are a norm, so we made quite a hasty descent down as the next valley over was looking rather dubious.
The Hamlets of Seez
We walked along the river to get to the village of Seez and from there wondered along lanes and through woods, passing through 3 other mountain hamlets. Our walk turned out to be a somewhat inspirational one as, attached to trees along the way, there were quotations in French:
“Les routes difficiles conduisent souvent à de belles destinations” – Difficult roads often lead to beautiful destinations.
“La vie est une fleur. L’amour en est le miel.” – Life is a flower. Love is its honey.
“Tu sais que te es sur le bon chemin, quand regarder en arriere ne t’interesse plus” – You know you’re on the right track, when looking back doesn’t interest you anymore.
Upon reflection (and translation) the quotes were very enlightening in their accuracy.
We were also delighted to see some exceptional paintings on the houses in the hamlets we passed through. It turned out to be a very cultural as well as inspirational walk.
Time to feast in Bourg Saint Maurice
When in France…well we totally had to do the clichés. Bread, cheese, frogs legs and snails. I still don’t know about the garlic, we didn’t see one man in a stripy shirt and beret with a string of garlic around his neck cycling and singing. Beh?!
If anyone is staying in BSM I can honestly recommend these few restaurants we tried (more than once…so good)
The Cherry Garden
OK, not French. This is a Thai style restaurant with a really cool vibe. They serve local micro-brew beers, Thai inspired cocktails, the food is really good and although Thai, there is definitely a nod to France; sticky sweet chili frogs legs anyone? Fantastic. Did it taste like chicken? I can see the similarity; white meat, not high on flavour, similar texture and like chicken a great vessel for other flavours. Yum. The boeuf au Massoman and the Thai Basil stir fry were definite favourites too, so much so Clark ordered the beef on two occasions. This restaurant also has the best outside space. A garden with lots of comfy seating, high top tables and stools for just enjoying a drink, as well as cosy shady spots and seating under a pergola.
La Petite Auberge
La Petite Auberge (it means The Little Inn) – this is a small lodge with a great restaurant serving local specialties. This is where the snails come in. Served Bourgogne style, doused in a garlic butter sauce, and beautifully served on a special snail plate (who knew). Added bonus, we were given the snail “forceps” a la ‘Pretty Woman’ fame:
“Slippery little suckers”
“It happens all the time madam”
Fortunately my snails stayed firmly in the forceps, but I was a tad nervous of pinging one at my fellow diners.
We had a total food inspiration moment – A simple and totally delicious ratatouille served with a knuckle of slow cooked lamb in olive oil and honey. We have since made our own version to go with chicken thighs, what a great meal idea. Recipe to follow. Clark opted for a burger…I know, we’re in France. But all is forgiven if said burger comes with a great big slab of fois gras on top of it (façon Rossini). Luxury much? All absolutely amazing washed down with a bottle of the local red wine, Mondeuse (vin de Savoie). A grape I have never heard of which is apparently the region’s most valuable dark-skinned grape. And so our wine education continues.
What else did we do while in Bourg Saint Maurice? We went high into the French Alps and went in search of the mother of the Alps, Mont Blanc (or for the Italians out there, Monte Bianco). We also couldn’t resist going over to the ski area of Les Arcs to check out those ski lifts and more altitude hiking.
Wow sounds as if you had an amazing time , with very different sort of food (braver than me ) love mum xxx