Torquay Coastal Walk on the South West Coast Path
May 3, 2020
The South West Coast Path
The Torquay coastal walk is the start of our endeavour to tour the whole of the South West Coast Path (SWCP) bit by bit. Â We’re not doing the 630 miles in the traditional manner of starting at one end and following it to the other; no, that would be too straight forward. Â Instead we have started with the map that includes our local base in Kingswear, the OL20, whose edge has us beginning our quest at the marina in Torquay and eventually (75.6 miles later) reaching Plymouth.
Torquay to Paignton Coastal Path
If I’m going to walk along coastal paths I imagine beautiful rural landscapes with sea views, undulating paths and no traffic to be seen or heard. Â Not so on our first leg, which is between two English Riviera towns; Torquay and Paignton; both seaside resorts made popular in the Victorian age. Â Parts of the towns still have that Victorian feel; the beach front buildings and hotels, the traditional parks and bandstands and the rows of coloured beach huts. Â Of course now it’s intermingled with modern shops, penny arcades and amusement centres. Â I was looking forward to those rural paths.
The walk between the two towns is a fairly easy one, being mainly along beach side promenades and pedestrian paths. Â Preston sands going into Paignton sands has you walking on a long stretch of beach; the sea on the day we went was particularly rough, sending waves crashing over the wall and into the road. Â Fortunately we had noticed the wet pavement and crossed to avoid a drenching; others were not so observant (of course we didn’t laugh…).
The British Beach hut
You know you’re at a British seaside resort when you see rows of brightly painted beach huts. They’re a bit of a mystery to me, having no running water or electricity, but their popularity is unwavering. Apparently there are long waiting lists in popular areas, and sales can range from tens of thousands to hundreds of thousands (the highest was sold for £295,000 in Dorset). But where did they come from? If anyone has watched the PBS/ITV ‘Victoria’, they will recall seeing Jenna Coleman’s Victoria entering the sea from a bathing machine; basically a beach hut on wheels. The user could change into their bathing suit in the machine, which was then wheeled into the sea so the lady could enter the sea without anyone seeing her in her swimming costume, therefore protecting her modesty.
Of course since the early 20th century it became acceptable to be seen in swimwear and such modesty became a thing of the past. Â What happened to the bathing machine? Â People still needed somewhere to change, so the wheels came off and what remains is the beach hut.
Of the bathing machines, Queen Victoria described it in her journal in 1847 as “delightful.”…”…went into the bathing machines, where I undressed and bathed in the sea….”
Paignton to Brixham harbour
The Torquay to Paignton coastal section complete, just past Paignton harbour the path goes uphill passing cliff top houses and then the two long beaches of Goodrington sands and Broad sands. Â As we were out of season, the beaches were virtually empty with only a few people who, like us, were enjoying strolling along the sandy shores. Â
This walk has amazing diversity. Â After leaving the beaches and popular tourist spots, the walk then goes through forest and past quiet coves that feel as though they’re your own personal discoveries.
At Elberry Cove we discovered this ruined building. Â I speculated it was a prison (there were a lot of bars); but on researching it turns out it is a bathhouse from the 18th century. Â Built to protect the modesty of a Lord Churston, the ground floor would ‘flood’ when the tide came in allowing the bather to enter the water unseen. Â Check out ‘Dave does History”s page. for the full story.
The final stretch to Brixham takes you down the outer harbour and past the fish market, with views past the fishing boats to the lighthouse. Â Look out for the seals bobbing in the water.
Don't miss on the Torquay to Brixham Coastal Walk
- A walk around the marina in Torquay.
- Look out for surfers in Torquay and near the pier in Paignton
- The promenade pier at Paignton. Â It’s very typical with arcades and rides, but worth a walk out for the views.
- The sandy beaches at Goodrington and Broad sands.
- The two quiet coves of Elberry and Churston. Â It’s irresistible to stop and listen to the water lapping gently on the beach, and the stones on both are prime skimming stones; who can resist.
- Look out for seals around Brixton harbour. Â We’ve seen them bobbing in the water and sunbathing on the pontoons in the marina.
- In the summer, there’s a passenger ferry that goes from Brixham back to Torquay marina. Â What a great way to end the walk (otherwise it’s the bus or walking back).
Where next?
Torquay to Brixham coastal walk complete; the next two legs, from Brixham to Kingswear, and then Kingswear to Little Dartmouth, are already included in my last post – Kingswear walks.
So it’s onto the next section of our South West Coast Path walks, picking up from Stoke Fleming, past Strete and down to the beach at Slapton Sands. Â We had a particularly beautiful day as you will see.
