Torno – Touring the towns of Lake Como
August 8, 2024
Torno is in the middle part of Lake Como, the Lariana Triangolo and I had a birthday to celebrate. Â So what better excuse for a few nights away. Â I may have men
tioned this before, I love food; eating out, cooking in, independent producers, locally grown, anything. The decision to go to Torno was purely based on food. A Michelin star restaurant and the very well-acclaimed Asian fusion at the Mandarin Oriental. I know, it’s a bit greedy to have 2 birthday meals, but while trying to book, I couldn’t get either on my actual birthday evening. So, a lunch at the former on my birthday and a dinner at the latter the day after.
The town of Torno
Torno is another town we hadn’t really explored before, but we had in fact made a brief stop while on a boat tour from Como. This second visit, however, enabled us to really poke around all the small, cobbled and steep streets; enjoying the harbour, church and independent shops (including the local perfumeria Aqua Del Lario, whose perfume range is named after the winds of Lake Como).  As it was my birthday and I had some money burning a hole in my pocket, I treated myself to their Molinaccio perfume – a south-east wind from the valleys behind the enchanting Faggeto Lario.  Faggeto Lario is the next town along the lake and one we walked to the next day (see below), so I think I managed to smell like a local.
First stop, our lovely holiday apartment which had an amazing balcony with stunning uninterrupted views over the lake and the town of Torno. As previously mentioned, there are a lot of cobbled, narrow alleyways…the entrance to our apartment was no exception. A few cobbled stairs and twist and turns carrying our suitcases and we were eventually there. On the plus side, it was very quiet…and you can’t beat these views.
Fine-dining in Torno
Il Sereno al Lago
Let’s get to the important stuff…food. Â The meal of the day was my birthday lunch at the Michelin-starred Il Sereno al Lago. Â This was just a 10-minute walk from our apartment in the very exclusive (trust me, I don’t use that word very often, and certainly not with myself in the same sentence) Il Sereno hotel….apparently “Europe’s most luxurious new hotel” according to Bloombergs. 
I’m going to start with this…absolutely lovely restaurant; we had the best table with the best view in the house; the staff were amazing – really friendly, super professional and without being snobbish (I even had a “companion seat” for my handbag – after all “a purse on the floor is money out the door”); and the food was exceptional. Â Traditional Italian but with flare and stunning presentation.
But we did raise our eyebrows as we arrived at the entrance gate and were checked off a list. Â Honestly, I don’t think Buckingham Palace has as much security. Â Thank goodness we had a booking as from there we were escorted to the restaurant. Â Who stays here that they need this much privacy?….Clearly only rich people, and famous? Â On one of the neighbouring tables (I’m being such a gossip here), there was an American family of two adults and two teenage children…in their poolside attire. Â Hello, Michelin starred restaurant! Â And what did they order? Â Fries. Â I have no words. Â After the meal though, as we were not escorted out of the restaurant, we had a little poke around the grounds….which of course were absolutley stunning (alas no celebrities spotted).
LËœARIA
Birthday meal number 2 at the Mandarin Oriental in their restaurant of “refined Italian cuisine with Japanese influences”. Â I had no idea what to expect from a Mandarin Oriental. Â I know they’re extremely expensive hotels to stay in and have a reputation for poshness, not necessarily something I gravitate towards. Â However, the hotel is in a beautiful old lakeside villa….and that is what I really wanted to see.
After being told at the gate to walk down the drive to the villa and “do not deviate from the drive”….again, who stays here? Â Arriving at the villa, we were not disappointed. Â It is charming, elegant and sympathetically renovated, whilst the grounds are like a botanical garden right on the lake. Â We started in the bar with a cocktail…this feels very much like our “Boston top 50 restaurants” challenge, which always started with a cocktail.Â
The restaurant is in a separate building within the grounds with an open veranda and views to the lake and gardens….splendid. Â Once again the food didn’t disappoint with raw fish and tempura sitting alongside pasta dishes. Â The service was a little pushy (one more sale?) and it’s never a good start to the experience when they request the table back in an hour?….Of course we refused, which they graciously accepted (hello, expensive meal….one shall not be rushed!).
The "old road" from Torno to Faggeto Lario
The path meandered through forests, which was lovely and cooling on a hot day, popping out in two different villages further up the hill from Lake Como. Â As always we had some lovely views over lake Como.
Don't miss:
Chiesa di San Marino – classic church but with some “modern” art under the porch-way.- Parrocchia della SS. Trinità – a much grander catholic church which, being high up in the town, has great views over Lake Como
- The Lido at Faggetto Lario – a good ice-cream stop and then it’s possible to get the ferry back to Torno. Â Unfortunately, we timed it badly and missed the ferry by 5 minutes.
- The two mountain villages of Molina and Lemna – both with eateries and both with lovely cobbled alleyways to explore.Â
Where next?
We never seem to run out of things to see and do around Lake Como. Â Every time I think we can say we’ve almost “done” Lake Como, we discover more; New walks; New bike rides; New lakeside towns to explore. Â And then there are the places, walks and cycle-rides that we just can’t resist doing again and again. Â Will it ever get old? Â At the moment I can honestly say….Nope.
You both look fab!! Jackie I love your top. Seems like a great birthday celebration :o)