Red Screes – Lake District Walks
March 23, 2021
The first time we went up Red Screes there was snow at the top and my memory of the stunning view is the reason we wanted to go up again. Â To make a more interesting walk, we read up in our Wainwright and decided on his recommended route; Ambleside to Red Screes along the valley, up via Kirkstone Pass and down the ridge back to Ambleside.
Know before you go
Red Screes is 2541 feet high (774 metres) and is number 49 in Wainwright’s 214 fells.  It’s a miserable fell in rain and cloud, as we experienced by accident and we’ve found some of the down a bit soggy when there’s been a lot of rain or snow.  However, the views make the possibility of squelchy feet at the end worth it.  Mr Wainwright says that Red Screes “has more claims to distinction than any other high fell”.  Did we agree with his statements?:
- “Red Screes has one of the highest sheets of permanent standing water and the highest population of tadpoles in spring” – No tadpoles, but we did see frogs and a lot of frog spawn in the water. Â Rather surprising at 2541 feet. Â Tick.
- “it has the biggest cairn” – perhaps it used to, it may have diminished over time.
- “this fell has the greatest mileage of stone walls” – I’m not going to argue. Â There are a lot.
- “it has the purest mountain form” – by this Wainwright is referring to it being independent, unsupported and not buttressed by other mountains. Â Tick.
- Also, “it has the reddest screes” – we saw red screes, so, tick.
- “it has one of the finest views” – double tick.
- Apparently, “it has the easiest way down” – we haven’t done them all but so far, tick.
- “it offers alcoholic beverages at 1480′” –Â normally true, sadly we’re still in lockdown so the Kirkstone Pass Inn is closed. Â Sigh. Â Next time.
- “Red Screes gives birth to the stream with the most beautiful waterfalls” – Stock Ghyll force is stunning, but there are others that definitely compare.  To be fair Mr Wainwright does say “some of the statements are expressions of opinion; others, especially the point about alcoholic beverages, are hard facts”.
The Kirkstone Inn (the small speck at the bottom)
The routes up Red Screes
We have attempted two routes up from Ambleside, coming down the same way each time along the south ridge. Â Mr Wainwright describes this descent as “the easiest way down” –Â we agree.
via High Sweden Bridge
A lovely valley walk passing by High Sweden bridge before a fairly easy navigation to the top of Red Screes. Â An 8 mile circular we have done twice and will do again. Â I think Red Screes will be a regular fell for us (when it isn’t in clouds).
via Middle Grove and Kirkstone Pass
A new route which we chose as Mr Wainwright said the route from Middle Grove was “the most attractive route”.  This route, starting near Stock Ghyll force waterfalls, meanders slowly up the valley, following the stream until the road near the top of “the struggle” is reached.  The section from Kirkstone Pass to the summit of Red Screes is very direct, very steep, but stepped most of the way with some minor fun scrambling near the top.  It was a really lovely route that we haven’t stopped raving about.  A definite repeater.
8.7 mile circular walk.
The summit of Red Screes
Wow!  As I said I love this view. My favourite is the view down to Brother’s Water and Patterdale and apparently Red Screes has “The best view of the High Street range”.  I would agree.
Join us for our walk up Red Screes
What to look out for on a Red Screes walk
- A detour to see The Kirk Stone. Â A fallen bolder that looks like a church tower when viewed from the valley and hence gave the Kirkstone Pass its name (kirk is the Scottish name for a church).
- The waterfalls just above Ambleside at Stock Ghyll Force. Slight detours to see the falls are worth it.
- A small detour to see High Sweden Bridge.
- Frogs at the top – we were there at the end of March and saw plenty.
- My Tom Ford sunglasses – tragically lost in December, if anyone finds them, please message me.
- Finally, a boulder I have named “resting rock” for its many choices of seating and relaxing. Â to be found in the valley on the way up from Middle Grove.
