Pleasantly surprised in ‘Piemonte’
August 12, 2019
We went to Piemonte (Piedmont) because we wanted to visit the wine region where Barolo is made. What we knew before we went was that Barolo is made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes and is known as one of the best (and most expensive) wines in the world. We expected wine tastings (many), delicious Italian food in small towns, and a rolling countryside filled with vineyards. Basically, we expected something very similar to Tuscany.
We found wine tastings, but not only Barolo. We found countryside and small towns, but not the rolling landscape of Tuscany. Here the hills are more dramatic and steeper, the small towns are perched precariously atop each hill and the food…..ah, the food. Not just the usual, amazing, rustic Italian fare, but innovative, stylish and classy fine dining, even in the most unexpected places.
Let's start with the wine:
Our wine education didn’t really start until we moved to The Netherlands. We were Merlot, Malbec, Cab Sauv drinkers. Pretty heavy stuff and mostly from the New World. The Dutch, however, take their wine very seriously. Suddenly we were in a place where the wine was untaxed, the producers regular visitors to the local (un-chain) wine shops and Clark with a boss who had his own wine cellar built and who would order two bottles of the same wine at dinner, so you could experience the taste of one immediately opened versus one that has been allowed to breathe (cue a few extremely wine fuelled evenings – all in the name of education of course).
Fast forward 3 years “education” in The Netherlands, a trip to the Chianti region in Italy, a tour through Champagne, a week in Bergerac in France with visits to St. Emilion and 2 years living in Northern Italy, neighbouring the Valtellina wine region. I would consider us quite knowledgable, but still in the world of wine we are toddlers.
We discovered that there is more to this region than the Barolo wine. Time for a little wine education. Lesson one:
The area grows three main red wine grape varieties; Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto (this is not a sweet wine as the name would suggest, but a light and fruity dry red). The area is well known for 
Barolo (obviously), but also produced here are Barbaresco (made from 100% Nebbiolo grape, like Barolo) and Langhe (can be a mix of grapes from the area or just the Nebbiolo). The area is also known for it’s white wine, which had previously flown under our radar, the Arneis grape (di Roero), a delicious, dry and fruity full flavoured white wine (I have a glass in my hand as I’m writing this). We were also surprised that this is the area where Asti (yes, as in Spumante) comes from and the very ‘trendy right now’ GAVI.
It would be rude not to taste all of the above. We visited Paulo Manzone’s vineyard for a lesson in wine from the area, which was very informative and provided in English. And of course came with wine tasting (I am now an expert of the ‘taste’ and spit…someone had to drive and Clark decided that someone was to be me. Surprised?…no).
One of my questions was, “Seriously, what’s the difference between Barolo, Barbaresco and Nebbiolo Langhe? They are all 100% Nebbiolo wines from Piemonte”. Lesson two:
Barolo has to be aged at least 2 years in an oak barrel followed by one year in the bottle. The grapes must come from one of 11 specific communes in the Langhe area (A very small area around the town of Barolo).
Barbaresco has to be aged at least 2 years (of which 9 months must be in oak).
Langhe can be aged in anything. A Nebbiolo Langhe is a wine that can be drunk young, so you can get it for a reasonable price and drink it straight away. The Barbaresco and Barolo are better if they are aged (depending on the year) and this is why they are more expensive.
I’m not sure I’ll remember all of that, but I now know they are all wines I really like and appreciate all the more for having a little knowledge and understanding about them. It’s surprisingly easy to buy Langhe Nebbiolos for a decent price in both the UK and the USA. Ok, the bottles of Barbaresco and Barolo are a tad pricier, but sometimes, it just has to be done. Go on, you’re worth it.
Moving onto the gastronomy:
Imagine. You’re walking through a stunning hill top town in Piemonte. There are cobbled streets, thin alleyways, beautiful old buildings slightly crumbling and disheveled, which only adds to their charm. 
You come across what looks like a restaurant. There’s a sign that looks new, a menu outside, but the front door is shut and locked. Is the restaurant open? There’s a doorbell. Do I ring it? That’s unusual. We came across this at three restaurants we went to for lunch. Ring the doorbell! This is not the time to be British about it, a moment of uncertainty was definitely rewarded.
We’re used to Italian food being amazing and expected nothing less here. What we found were restaurants run by young, inventive owners and chefs. The food is fine dining. The service; enthusiastic, proud, professional and impeccable. The presentation of the food; beautiful, innovative and clever…art.
Our first ‘by chance’ lunch was Ristorante Donna Selvatica in Neive, owned and run by a young chef and his friend. Before we were given the menu, a large plate of truffles was placed on our table, and left for us to contemplate. The ‘tempter’ worked as Clark and I decided to go for the ‘Truffle’ menu (Clark loves truffles, there really was no other option). A truffle menu involves A LOT of truffle. Truffle beef tartar to start (we couldn’t even see the tartar there was so much truffle), truffle pasta (again, more truffle than pasta) and finally candied truffle and truffle ice cream for dessert. Each course was amazing…was it too much truffle? Absolutely not.
In Serralunga we went to Osteria Tre Case. Again a young inventive chef, charming and attentive staff and a level of service right up there with the Michelin restaurants. What we learnt after number two; you really only need to order one or two courses. The chef provides little tasters before, between and after courses so you generally end up with an extra 2 or 3 little bits on top of what is ordered.
In Tre Stelle we visited recently opened ‘Taste’, owned and run by a family who renovated and created a restaurant in a house with 360 degree views of vineyards. They have taken so much pride in the interior, and show this by taking you on a quick tour of the cellars before you are seated. Their ethos is local, local, local and food that is true to the area. It was amazing to see brothers, father and mother working alongside each other.
Our final lunch before we left was Antine in Barbaresco. The chef in this restaurant had the most amazing flair and creativity for presentation. I think we only ordered a starter and a main each, but were treated to apperitivo and dessert. I cannot explain and I hope the pictures do it justice. The wine they recommended was from the producer literally across the road from the entrance to the restaurant, ‘Gaja’. So after our beautiful lunch, we moseyed over to taste and purchase some of their wine.
We were so blown-away by Piemonte, especially the food, that we will definitely go back again. Next time we will go for a longer trip so we can thoroughly explore the area and uncover more of their fantastic gastronomic delights.
I think a bike and a pair of hiking boots may be a requirement. This will not be a low calorie undertaking. The sacrifices one makes. Ah well.
