Passo San Jorio – Hiking around Lake Como
July 17, 2025
San Jorio is our iconic “must-do-every-year” walk. It’s been a while since I’ve put fingers to keyboard and honestly I’ve written so many draughts, but vetoed them all as not-quite-the-right post. Why have I decided to write about this walk? As I said, an iconic every year walk for us….but also, a walk we insist all our visiting friends and family do. It’s just too stunning to miss; the absolutely breathtaking views, stepping foot over the Swiss border, lunch in the Rifugio San Jorio and maybe some Italian wine…why not?. Who were the first guests we took up, you ask? It was Mumsie and Popsicle back in 2017. So, I’ve chosen this walk and indeed this post as a dedication to Mumsie, an avid walker herself and someone who loved to be outside….the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree. As she would always say, “go and enjoy yourselves”…
You can see from our website that both Clark and I are keen walkers. We’re never happier than when we are in nature, putting one foot in front of the other and marvelling at the beauty that surrounds us. And what beauty we are spoiled with; the Devon and Cornwall coast path, Dartmoor, The Lake District and of course Lake Como and the surrounding mountains. Those are our usual haunts. Add to that the explorations in between our regular “homes”, where we pet-sit, road trip and once again allow our feet to guide us through even more splendid terrain.
I’ve now found another reason to walk….therapy, a chance to clear the mind, reflect, reminisce and remember.
Passo San Jorio is a walk we do in Italy every year…several times. There are numerous routes up to the pass, so it’s achievable for everyone. From the front door, from the first short-cut (to be explained) or from Rifugio Giovo (the latter two involving a drive up part of the way….off road).
Passo San Jorio from Mottafoiada
The full-fat walk
Option one - the short cuts
There are 2 options: The short-cut route or via Alpe Stazzona (doing one up and the other down makes a great circular – either way is great)
This is pretty much the full-fat version. In total a 19km round-trip with 850 meters of ascent/descent.
Underfoot this is a great walk. Most of it is along a track that it’s possible to drive along, but as a walker there are 4 official short-cuts to cut out some of the tedious zig-zag parts of the mountain road. These off-road sections are steeper, but cut out a chunk of mileage. Look out for a red and white pole on the left of the road that indicates the first short-cut. The second follows immediately, the third after a short walk up the road and the fourth immediately opposite the exit of the third. Then a straight-forward walk along the road to Rifugio Giovo.
Option two - via Alpe Stazzona
After Ignoring the first short-cut and instead continuing on the road, take the first fork on the right and follow this all the way to Alpe Stazzona. Before the path heads down to the bridge that crosses the river, there is a path that goes Straight-on following the river as it climbs (quite steeply at the end), popping out in front of Rifugio Giovo.
Both of these paths from Mottafoiada converge at Rifugio Giovo and from there continue to San Jorio (see below).
A third option at Alpe Stazzona is to cross the bridge and upon reaching the farm building, turn left. This route is longer, along footpaths and follows a red and white blaze (sometimes hard to spot, but if followed the path is good). This path, although longer (approx 23km round trip if coming down via Giovo) has excellent views as you climb all the way along the valley, passing a few spots by the river where feet-dunking is recommended.
This is the route we’ve videoed, so join us for our beautiful walk:
The walk from Rifugio Giovo to Passo San Jorio
The first two walks will take you here, but also it’s possible to drive to this point. The drive up to Giovo is on windy switch back mountain roads. We’re so used to it now we don’t really think about it, but sometimes we see from visitors’ faces that the narrow road with no barrier is a little…hairy? Vertiginous? (If you have had the pleasure of this experience, please feel free to add any other appropriate words in the comments below). Anyway, the drive is worth it for the stunning walk to San Jorio.
The walk up to Passo San Jorio is about an hour and 300 meters of ascent. The track is fairly wide, just loose stone in places and stone and cement elsewhere. It enables the walker to look around and really take in the amazing mountains, including the views back to the top of Lake Como, back to Giovo and upwards to the highest peak of Marmontana. On reaching Rifugio San Jorio, it is about another 10 minutes up to the pass and the Swiss border. Phew, is that it?…well, yes it could be, but if you want the best photo straddling the Swiss border stone, then I recommend the final ascent, another 20 meters up to the Church of San Jorio (honestly, only another 5 minutes).
One foot in Italy, one foot in Switzerland!
The views from Passo San Jorio
Enjoy the photos from what feels like the top of the world, and a place that seems to free the soul…big breath.
Rifugio San Jorio - re-fuel stop
A note to Mumsie
Mumsie, you always encouraged our travels and were our biggest cheerleader. You were the first to comment on photos I sent you, to ask questions about the places we visited, to ask about the pets we were looking after. You always visited us wherever we lived, whether London, the south of England or abroad in Philly, Holland and Italy. You always embraced our choices, encouraged us and told us to “go and enjoy yourselves” and “do it while you can”.
I’ll miss the comments that you almost always left when I posted something on RockingChairFuel and I’m so grateful that I can still see the ones you left on previous posts. A reminder of your constant love and support in our lives….and all the encouragement we need to continue exploring..
And…Ausfahrt
(for those not in know it is the German word for “exit”….)
Yes, you got the words perfect on this post. There seems to be dust in my eye…..
Can’t wait to see you guys Saturday and see what you have in store for us xx
Pops and I were just talking this morning about their hike here, I couldn’t believe they had been on the ‘full fat’ version 🫣As the most recent candidates to join you, we had an amazing time and are so .glad we got to experience the splendour. A lovely dedication to Mumsie x
Jackie that is absolutely lovely, what a lovely tribute to your Mum . Hope you enjoy the rest of your stay.looking forward to seeing you when you get back.lots of love Patxx
Beautiful memories! Sending hugs
Happy memories Jackie a lovely tribute well done. Lots of Love. Chris