Exploring a small corner of Lake Lugano
August 10, 2022
Just over the mountain from Lake Como lies Lake Lugano, its eastern end in Italy and the rest in Switzerland. We had a birthday to celebrate, so what better way than with some new views, some new places to explore and our usual party of 2 exploded to 3, to include Clark’s sister. Our weekend saw us staying near the east-end of the lake in a lake-side apartment in Cima. The perfect spot to stay for 3 nights and explore a little of what Lake Lugano has to offer. What did we get up to?
What to find on the Eastern end of Lake Lugano
The village of Cima on Lake Lugano
From the main lake-side road, Cima doesn’t appear to have much beyond lake-side private residences and a small lake-front piazza with a restaurant, local bar and shop. However, venturing away from the main road there is an old cobbled path, virtually traffic-free, that winds up through the village. From this path we had great views down to the lake and of the surrounding mountains. The narrow streets wound up and down, past a church and revealing perfect 3 or 4 storey town-houses. In between we could hear daily Italian life happening; from conversations drifting out from inside the houses to children playing in the labyrinth of streets. It made for a wonderful half-hour evening stroll to Osteria La Lanterna – our chosen restaurant for a birthday celebration.
The osteria has a lovely spot overlooking the lake with a really pretty covered terrace. Keen to start the celebrations Italian style, Stacy and I ordered Aperol Spritzes and Clark a gin and tonic. We were quite surprised when our Spritzes came out in beer glasses (albeit very nice, stemmed ones) and Clark’s gin and tonic came in a pint glass. Hmm, what to expect next. We needn’t have worried. The food was presented with great care and attention and not only looked stunning, but tasted amazing too. 
We were spoiled with beef
tartare covered with slices of truffle. An amazing beetroot risotto topped with a local curd-cheese (called zincarlin) and the most stunning little starter called ‘Il Pomodoro e le Zucchine Ballano nell’ orto’ meaning ‘The tomato and courgettes dance in the garden’. How cute, actual meaning; courgette three ways served with a tomato gazpacho. I think Stacy was quite smug with her choice (as were we all, hello….truffles). The evening culminated with complimentary glasses of limoncello. We couldn’t possibly refuse, it would be rude.
Villa Fogazzaro Roi
Not far away from Cima we found Villa Fogazzaro Roi, now a Fondo per L’ Ambiente Italiano (FAI – Italian equivalent of National Trust. BTW if you are a member of NT take your card to get discount at FAI properties). The villa belonged to Antonio Fogazzaro, a famous Italian author known for the 1896 novel Un Piccolo Mondo Antico (meaning Little World of the Past). OK, me neither, never heard of him. I did decide to buy said book and practice my Italian. It may take a while, but the story is set at the villa so I hope to “recognise” some of the descriptions at least. 
It’s definitely worthy of a visit to see the perfectly kept rooms all reflecting the style of the late 19th century and to see the amazing roof garden and views over Lake Lugano. We were shown around by a lovely guide who indulged us with some English when our knowledge of Italian failed us. A walk outside the property through the village of Oria was also well worth it as we wandered cobbled alleyways and vaulted walkways all with snippets of Lake Lugano peeking through arches and garden gates. And of course, no village is complete without an ornately painted church.
The village of Castello and gallery Casa Pagani
After the villa, we took a drive up to the 12th century village of Castello and gallery Casa Pagani. The reason you visit the village is to see an authentic old village. There are no facilities; no shop, bar, café or restaurant. What you do have is a very peaceful village with tiny streets only suitable for pedestrians wearing sensible shoes (wedge espadrilles not the best option) and the most amazing elevated views across Lake Lugano. As for Casa Pagani, tucked away down one of the tiny streets, the gallery is an homage to the Italian painter Paolo Pagani and is housed in a beautiful old building which was once the painter’s residence. Who now? Absolutely no idea, I’m feeling somewhat uneducated when it comes to Italian culture. Still, it’s never too late to learn. An Italian baroque painter from the late 17th century (apparently a baroque artist choses the most dramatic moment to paint, the action moment – usually very detailed and dark. I seem to remember a painting with someone who had been beheaded….lovely).
Claino Borgo Dipinto - the painted village
I had read about “the painted village”, where artistic and cultural paintings inspired by the life of the village are displayed on buildings throughout the town. Two of the towns inhabitants proposed the open-air gallery as a way to attract tourists. Added bonus, it’s free to visit. How could we resist?
There is a map in the village (and on the website) showing where we could find all the works of art. It made for a lovely wander around the village “discovering” each unique piece. A walk down to the old wash-house was also worth the effort as it took us through lush cool forest and past small waterfalls.
Added bonus, we happened upon an osteria, tucked away down one of the small streets. What a find. Osteria de Cin turned out to be a very special lunch spot. A really beautiful location with views down to the lake, a stunning and rustic interior, fabulous food and the owners, a couple who located to Claino to realise their dream of owning and cooking in their own establishment. I couldn’t resist i Ravioli di Deborah (the chef), a signature dish of cuttlefish ink ravioli stuffed with shrimp. Equally amazing were the lobster pasta special and the Tagliatelle fatte in casa (that means home-made) al ragu di lepre (I’ve had many a ragu, this is the first time I’ve seen “hare” ragu….yes those rabbit-like animals). All totally delicious and I suspect we will be returning to sample some more.
We had such an amazing time, it felt like we had done a weeks worth of exploring in just a few days and we only touched a small corner of Lake Lugano. Ending our days with a dip in the lake only added to the joy! The trip has already inspired us to cycle the old railway from Menaggio on Lake Como to Porlezza on Lake Lugano, but I feel we may have to return again to explore some more. Next year’s birthday…? Who’s free?
HAPPY BIRTHDAY JACKIE!! xoxo Donna :o)